BADEN NOW: Hard Work, But Great Joy!

Text by Frank Ebbinghaus - tasting notes by Frank Ebbinghaus & Stuart Pigott

Last revision: 06.11.26

This overview of the most exciting and most innovative new wines of Baden is based upon the notes from a handful of tastings during the last months.

Let's face the truth: essentially, no wine lover really cares whether the vintage was an easy or difficult one for the winegrowers. What counts is the quality in the glass! And who would believe that, in the sun-drenched region of Baden, there are still vintages that can be very challenging for winegrowers? Yes that is the case, and it certainly was in 2024, for example. Late frosts in the north, heavy rainfall during the late spring and early summer with the associated risk of fungal disease even in the south. Climate change isn’t a case of picking and choosing. Or is it?

Anyone tasting Baden’s top wines from the 2024 vintage will be delighted by the freshness, balance and complexity, combined with all the sensuality that are the hallmarks of wines from southern Germany. The vintage is a great success, as was evident at the Preview of the GGs (Grosse Gewächse) wines organised by the VDP (Association of German Prädikat Wine Estates) in Wiesbaden at the end of August, when a few late-released wines from the 2021–2023 vintages were also presented. No need to wait for the GGs from the 2025 vintage – already hailed as great – which will not be released until next year, because 2024 has so much to offer.

Weissburgunder and Grauburgunder, which often risk becoming overly opulent in hot, dry years, are wonderfully fresh and elegant in 2024; the only (unfortunately!) two Riesling Gs from the Kraichgau region in northern Baden showcased in Wiesbaden were downright mineral and crisp. The best Chardonnays are full-bodied and reminiscent of Burgundy. And the Schlossberg GG 2023 from Bernhard Huber is off the scale! But at the very top are the Pinot Noirs, the finest of which, with their finesse and sensuality, rank amongst the best in Germany.

STANDOUT WINES

Schlumberger-Bernhart Baden Gutedel Laufender Altenberg Kracher 2024 – 11% / Old vines growing on limestone, low yields, a short maceration period and a long period of ageing on the lees transform Gutedel – the Markgräflerland subregion’s most common grape variety – into a wine of character, whose great finesse pays homage to Burgundy. It shines with yeast and apple aromas, as well as a marvellous mineral acidity. Needs plenty of air and large glasses. 94 (FE)

Wöhrle Baden Weissburgunder Herrentisch GG 2024 – 13% / Plenty of delicate oak, walnut, considerable power, yet also finesse. Yellow fruit on the nose. Needs plenty of air. Delicate pear with walnut, some yellow fruit. Mineral, very lively on the palate, lovely acidity, long. Very lovely freshness, although somewhat more mature. 94 (FE)

Dr. Heger Baden Pinot Noir Schlossberg Achkarren GG 2024 – 13% / Light in colour, very delicate nose of cherry and a hint of raspberry. Appears light and delicate, mineral, refined; the tannins caress the palate. Very delicate fruit with raspberry and a hint of cherry. Silky and very subtle. WOW!  97 (FE)

A GREAT DISCOVERY

Kopp  Baden  Chardonnay  Varnhalt Felsenstück  2023 - 12.5% /  Stand back for the North Baden Express! Texturally complex and seriously concentrated, this is a remarkable Chardonnay with terrific drive at the super-mineral finish! From young vines planted on a very steep slope with volcanic porphyry soil. Bottled unfiltered. 96 (SP)

AND A FIRST IMPRESSION OF 2025

Nina Thomsen Landwein Oberrhein Pinot Noir Schwärmer 2025 - 12.5% / Brimming with sour cherries and spring blossoms, this is a joyful, self-confidently airy Pinot with delicate, moderately dry tannins and a crisp finish. As the brand on the cork says: Give Yourself Some Pleasure! Cask sample. 91? (SP)

NOTE: Only paying subscribers can view the notes for all 94 wines tasted below. The ratings include ??? wines rated ???!