BEAUJOLAIS-VILLAGES: I am not a Number, I am a Real Wine!

By Stuart Pigott – last revision: 05.04.26 

Vineyard Area for Red Wine: 2,532 hectares (2024)

Proportion of Total Wine Production: 19.5% (2024)

Appellation established: 1937

Part One: Love is in the Glass

In front of me is a glass of red wine that’s wonderfully elegant with silky tannins and a minerality that makes it glide over my palate like a lover’s hand. And my wife loves it for exactly the same reasons. Yes, we are wine lovers, and that is a fact! The Château de Corcelles Beaujolais Le Perréon 2023 tastes at least as good as many red Burgundies costing 50 Euros a bottle, but the retail price in France is just 15 Euros! Love it!

That’s the price because the wine comes from the Beaujolais-Villages appellation: usually deemed by experts to be APPELLATION NUMBER 11 in the Beaujolais hierarchy after the 10 Crus that currently build the pinnacle. And even regular wine folks often assume it’s just one small step up from “basic” Beaujolais, with a bit more fruit, body and quality. Let’s face it, who wants to be called Number 11? I AM NOT A NUMBER, I AM A REAL WINE! 

As Natasha Hughes MW writes in her new book The Wines of Beaujolais, this is a misunderstanding: Beaujolais-Villages can be a serious wine with a lot of character. There’s another point that I think needs to be made about this appellation that I didn’t find in her book: Beaujolais is a region of villages and small towns that feel like villages. There’s no photogenic Old Wine Town equivalent to Beaune in Burgundy or Colmar in Alsace. And that’s what suggested to me the title of this story. It’s a play on the words “I am not a number, I am a free man!” – the slogan of the 1967 TV series, The Prisoner, most of the story of which takes place in a holiday camp-like prison called The Village.

Special Means More Specific

This brings us to the most important thing happening in Beaujolais-Villages. In spite of this appellation being a very important category for export sales, and the appellation name being widely-known as a result, paradoxically, the most exciting things happening here are the result of it being differentiated into smaller units. That Beaujolais Le Perréon 2023 from Château de Corcelles is a wonderful example of this, showing terrific character and finesse. This is not just a wine from some village or other that happens to be inside the boundaries of the Beaujolais-Villages appellation. (Note: the name is sometimes written without the hyphen).

The village of Le Perréon lies just south and to the west of the most southerly of the Beaujolais Crus in the valley of La Vauxonne. Steep vineyards, many of them south-facing with predominantly pink granite soils, make this a special location. And climate change has certainly upgraded the potential of its many high-altitude vineyards. Château de Corcelles is one of dozens of ambitious producers exploring the possibilities of the many special locations within the generous borders of the Beaujolais-Villages appellation. They are assisted by the rule that allows the producers to at least write the specific village name on the label where Villages would otherwise stand, e.g. Beaujolais Le Perréon.

PART TWO: Unofficial Crus…maybe even Unofficial Grand Crus  

Beaujolais Le Perréon isn’t alone either. Beaujolais-Lantignié in the north of the region is the most famous example of this phenomenon, and the excellent 2024 wines from Frédéric Berne show what’s possible here (as the 2023s and 2022s did before them!) Beaujolais-Jullie demands attention and (at some point) recognition in the same way, as the impressive wines of Domaine Oedipoda demonstrate. And Beaujolais-Lancié probably also belongs in the same group, though I didn’t taste any exceptional wines from there this year.  

For all practical purposes these wines taste like they are from unofficial Beaujolais Crus!  Anonymous industry sources have told me that Lantignié could already have submitted an application to become the next Beaujolais Cru, had there not been such great differences of opinion amongst the producers on the issue of whether organic viticulture would be obligatory, or not. Until these are resolved, there will be the organic group around Berne against those in favour ofCru status, but against organic, and those who are happy with the present situation.

However, this argument is not only a well-trodden path, but I think it results in the potential of some of the most special locations in the Beaujolais-Villages appellation being UNDERESTIMATED. I say this primarily because of a bunch of extraordinary red and white wines I tasted several times with Jean-Baptiste Bachevillier in Blacé. This little town lies just south of the Cru at the northern end of this appellation.The regular Beaujolais Villages that JB makes is delicious and sophisticated, but the single parcel bottlings labelled Domaine de Mont Joly Beaujolais-Blacé taste like unofficial Premier Crus, even unofficial Grand Crus!

I am sure that at this point some of my colleagues, certainly some French colleagues, will now be scoffing at me for being so naïve. However, my first promise to you is to be RADICALLY HONEST, and I take that deadly seriously. When I first experienced JB’s wines at home back in March 2022 I was amazed by what I smelt and tasted. Right from the beginning it was clear to me what enormously expressive, deep and fascinating wines these are: David Lynch meets Alain Baschung at Romanée-Conti ! (Alain Baschung was the French David Bowie, or Bowie was the British Baschung, depending on your perspective).

When I visited Domaine Mont Joly in March 2023 it was a sobering experience to see how primitive and so obviously undercapitalized everything was, but JB’s daring and determination were inspiring. Each time I returned the winery and the house looked better than the time before. JB’s free spirit marries science to poetry and it doesn’t seem to bother him in the least that in terms of what is visible everything develops in a series of small steps. He accepted and accepts this with equanimity, because he knows how good his wines already are and is quietly confident about the future.

And that’s what New Beaujolais is all about for me: winemakers creating something out of little or nothing through hard work, daring and determination. Amazing things are happening in many Beaujolais villages!

42 wines tasted, one with 97 points and three with 95.

PART THREE: Everything is Possible in The Village

2024 REDS

Frédéric Berne  Beaujolais-Lantignié  Pierre Bleue  2024 – 12.5% / The interwoven aromas of smoke, clove, black cherry and forest berries pull you into this youthful wine that deftly marries freshness to depth. The solid structure of moderately dry tannins gives it good length. From vineyards with volcanic diorite soil. 92 (SP)

Frédéric Berne  Beaujolais-Lantignié Aux Vergers  2024 – 12% / In spite of the moderate alcoholic content, this is a seriously structured wine with intense stony-smoky minerality. Still tightly wound like a watch spring, it really needs more time in bottle, but the finish is impressively long with a herbal coolness that suggests this has a long life ahead of it. From a south-facing site with volcanic diorite soil. 93 (SP)

Frédéric Berne  Beaujolais-Lantignié  Harmonie  2024 – 12% / With its tapestry of red fruit and floral aromas, this beauty has a velvety elegance that’s hard to resist. Nothing dramatic, but the wet-stone and wild herb intensity of the fresh long finish is a beauty to behold!  A cuvée of wines from vineyards with volcanic diorite and pink granite soils. 94(SP)

Jean-Marc Burgaud  Beaujolais-Lantignié  2024 – 12.5% / A serious and attractive expression of this appellation! Very elegant, but also with impressive mid-palate concentration. Bright redcurrant and blood orange character at the long, structured finish. 93 (SP)

Château de Bel-Air (Jean-Marc Lafont)  Beaujolais-Villages  Les Granits Bleu 2024 – 13% / The restrained aromas of red berries are married to some healthy tannins and a crisp acidity to create a moderately dry, quite generous whole. Slightly drying finish. 89 (SP)

Château Grand’ Grange  Beaujolais Le Perréon  La Cascade  2024 – ??% / Sleek and compact, this has been built for the long term. Although this has quite a silky on the front palate, it turns in a drier and crisper direction at the finish, so that the overall impression is of austerity. 89 (SP)

Château Grand’ Grange  Beaujolais Le Perréon  La Tour  2024 – ??% / Playful and fragrant, but with quite a serious structure behind it, this has enough stony minerality to carry the rather sleek and slightly austere style. Long, emphatically dry finish. 90 (SP)  

Château de la Terrière (Domaines Loron)  Beaujolais-Villages  2024 – 14% / Bold and very fresh, this is anything but a lightweight. Bright wild blackberry and mulberry fruit is wrapped around the firm, self-confidently dry tannins. The positive austerity at the finish means this is definitely for the dinning table rather than the picnic blanket. 91 (SP)

Domaine Azzara  Beaujolais Villages  Stellogonie  2024 – 12.5% / The problem with sophisticated designer packaging is how can the contents live up to the expectations? This is quite a sophisticated wine for the appellation that’s still very young, but already has a fascinating texture thanks to the fine-grained tannins. Discreet red fruit and bitter chocolate aromas, but stacks of wet-stone character right through the long elegant finish. 93 (SP)

Domaine Pierre-André Dumas  Beaujolais-Villages  Vrille  2024 – 12% / With its generous strawberry and black raspberry fruit and a combination of suppleness and freshness this is an easy-drinking no-brainer. 88 (SP)

Domaine du Clos du Fief (Michel et Sylvain Tête)  Beaujolais Jullié  2024 – 13% / Lively redcurrant fruit is wrapped around a core of supple tannins, the bright acidity and liquorice note counterpointing this nicely. Good length. 90 (SP)

Domaine de Mont Joly  Beaujolais Villages  2024 – 13% / A really serious wine for the appellation with excellent concentration and a beautiful combination of silky tannins and mineral freshness. Very subtle red fruit aromas. And then comes the best of the wine, the very long expressive finish has fantastic energy without being a jot tart. 93 (SP)

Domaine des Nugues  Beaujolais-Villages  Sans Soufre  2024 – 13% /A successful sulphite-free wine that has an appealing juiciness and moderate tannins on the medium-bodied palate. Not so long, but very harmonious. 89 (SP)  

Domaine Oedipoda  Beaujolais-Villages  Gamay Road  2024 – 11% / The marked smoky minerality enables this wine to pull off the (almost) impossible feat of seaming bold in spite of just 11% alcohol. I love the creaminess that so neatly balances the animating acidity. Touch of blood orange at the finish. 91 (SP)

Domaine du Sallerin  Beaujolais-Villages  ma petite robe rouge  2024 – 13% / With its blast of red fruits and its zesty acidity, this light and crisp red is very refreshing. A tad tart at the finish, so needs a warm day. 86 (SP)

Domaine du Sallerin  Beaujolais-Villages  Ma fleur d’Amour  2024 – 13% / The interplay of full red berry fruits and smokiness give this well-rounded wine an immediate appeal. Slightly drying finish, but has plenty to offer. 89(SP)

Domaine de Vernus  Beaujolais-Villages  2024 – 12% / Crisp and zesty, but with excellent depth and mineral freshness, this has a wonderful floral charm and an acidity that’s very lively, but only positive. 91 (SP)

Georges Duboeuf  Beaujolais-Villages  Bio  2024 – 12.5% / This organic wine is an excellent introduction to the wines of this much-loved appellation. Plenty of blackberry and blueberry fruit without being a jot loud. Then the fine-grained tannins build, but remain well-knit with the lively freshness, right through the long, velvety finish. 91 (SP)

Famille Dutraive  Beaujolais-Lantignié  2024 – 12% / Still very youthful (with a hint of reduction) this has good mid-palate depth, but remains cool and rather sleek. Crisp and mineral finish. Will show better after a bit more bottle age. 90 (SP)

Mee Godard  Beaujolais Villages  2024 – 12.5% / This fragrant and juicy wine has so many summer flower aromas that if you close your eyes you feel like you’re in garden. Also hints of liquorice and spices. This starts light and bright, but velvety tannins build at the finish. Made from bought-in grapes from Lantignié. 92 (SP)

Sandrine Henriot  Beaujolais Villages  2024 – 12% / This unfiltered, biodynamic wine has effusive floral aromas (think irises and red roses) and a delightful silkiness in spite of the youthful freshness. Then, a deftly crafted touch of tannin anchors the zesty finish (blood orange!) 91 (SP)

Laura Lardy  Beaujolais-Villages  à Gourde Gamay  2024 – 12% / A daringly delicate expression of this appellation that’s so widely perceived as the more substantial alternative to “basic” Beaujolais. Needs a moment in the glass to open up, but the subtle red cherry and redcurrant aromas are worth the wait. Silky and lively, with surprising length. 90 (SP)   

Mommessin  Beaujolais-Villages  Grandes Mises  2024 – 12.5% / This has the freshness of the vintage, a touch of blood orange character accentuating that. Plenty of hedgerow character here, but needs a bit more time in the bottle to smooth of a few slightly rough edges. 89 (SP)

D. Piron  Beaujolais-Villages  2024 – 12.5% / Quite some complexity for this category with a wide spectrum of red berries and spices with a touch of violets. Good harmony of healthy tannins, substance and fine fruit. Long finish. All this producer’s 2024 wines from Lantignié went into this, rather than being bottled separately, as usual. 91 (SP)

Philippe Viet  Beaujolais Lantigné  2024 – 12% / The delicate spicy and herbal character adds interest to the wild strawberry fruit that gives this light-footed wine plenty of charm. No big statement, but lovingly-crafted! 90 (SP)

2023 REDS

Les Bachelards  Beaujolais-Villages  Gamay Petite Fleur Rouge 2023 – 13.5% / Very silky for a wine from this appellation, with generous fine tannins and quite full body. Glides over your palate at the long finish. Matured entirely in stainless steel and concrete tanks. 92(SP)   

Arnaud Combier  Beaujolais-Villages  Premières Gouttes Gamay  2023 – 12% / Very pretty thanks to the zesty red berry fruit and a touch of blood orange character this is a light and bright wine for the ripe 2023 vintage. Pleasantly crisp finish. 89 (SP) 

Château de Corcelles  Beaujolais Le Perréon  2023 – 13% / Some will say that this is very Burgundian, but what this means is that it has a wonderful elegance in spite of its no less impressive structure. As well as ripe strawberry there’s also a touch of sour cherry, silky tannins and a minerality that makes glide over you like a lover’s hand. Then the red fruits return at the very end like a ray of sunshine! 94 (SP)

Cave du Château des Loges  Beaujolais-Villages  Coeur de Granit  2023 – 13% / This successfully marries an effusive violet aroma with a solid base of healthy tannins to deliver a well-structured, but still bright expression of this appellation. 90 (SP)

Château Pougelon  Beaujolais Villages Lieut-dit Pougelon  2023 – 12.5% / This conforms to the widespread of image of this appellation as the more solid and structured alternative to basic Beaujolais, but it also has very good depth and textural complexity. Quite some velvety power at the bold, long finish. 91 (SP)

Domaine Pierre-André Dumas  Beaujolais-Villages  2023 – 13.5% / Very savoury and quite developed, this is generous and fleshy with soft tannins and a hint of caramel alongside the mature blackberry fruit. 88 (SP)

Domaine Les Garcons  Beaujolais Villages  2023 – 12.5% / This tips over the edge of youthful into reduction (exaggerated youthfulness) so needs some aeration for the discreet red berry fruit to open up. Cool, sleek and slightly minty. Slightly drying finish. Might show better after a bit more time in the bottle. 89 (SP)

Domaine des Nugues  Beaujolais-Lancié  2023 – 13.5% / Bright fresh herb and strawberry aromas on the surprisingly light and fresh palate. Zesty and quite well-structured at the finish. 90 (SP)

Domaine Oedipoda  Beaujolais-Jullié  2023 – 13.5% / The intensity of the clove aroma must be experienced to be believed! Behind it lies deep damson plum character, a hint of dustiness and velvety tannins. They build at the imposing and powerful finish. 92 (SP)

Domaine Oedipoda  Beaujolais-Jullié  Laneyrie  2023 – 14.5% / The nose of mulberry, clove and wet earth is enveloping, the concentration and structure impressive, but this also retains wonderful freshness. Very long mineral finish where the alcohol is beautifully integrated. Cork closure. 93 (SP)

Domaine du Sallerin  Beaujolais-Villages  Ma fleur d’Amour  2023 – 14% / The blast of very ripe strawberry fruit is easy to enjoy and this is quite a harmonious wine, but the rather full, gentle tannins balance the fruit nicely without adding much character. 88 (SP)

Célia et David Large  Beaujolais Villages  Les Grands Terriers  2023 – 13.5% / Fascinating notes of star anise and wild herbs. Incredible concentration of forest berry flavour, power and vitality give this unique Beaujolais Villages enormous appeal. And in spite of all this there’s no hint of heaviness. In fact, the finish seems to fly! 95 (SP)

Piron  Beaujolais Lantignié  Fructus Agapè  2023 – 13.5% / Proof that Lantignié deserves Beaujolais Cru status. Black raspberry fruit, earthy and spicy too. Plenty of power, but also with deftly interlocking fresh tannins and mineral acidity. 93 (SP)

2022 REDS

Domaine de Mont Joly  Beaujolais-Blacé La Pointe  2022 – 14% / What an amazing wine for this appellation. Expansive richness that’s now mellowing nicely. Deep pine cone, forest floor and pepper character on the palate, also a delicate cherry compote note. Very long and powerful, dry peppery finish. From a northeast-facing vineyard with gneis soil. Matured in concrete eggs. 95 (SP)

Domaine de Mont Joly  Beaujolais-Blacé  85.45  2022 – 14.5% / Incredibly concentrated and densely structured, this has an amazing damson  plum, rye bread crust and eucalyptus character. The huge fine tannins anchor this big ship and give it an emphatically dry finish. Delicious now, but so much aging potential. From a northeast-facing vineyard with gneis soil, matured for 22 months in demi muid oak casks. 97 (SP)

Domaine de Mont Joly  Comtes Rhodaniens  Syrah  2022 – 14% / Although it’s not entitled to the appellation, this remarkable Syrah comes from Blacé in Beaujolais-Villages. Thee astonishing thing about it is that it really tastes like great Beaujolais! Very perfumed and expressive, yet velvety and pure I wrote “f***king amazing!” in my notebook! 95 (SP)

Domaine du Sallerin  Beaujolais-Villages  Ma fleur d’Amour  2022 – 13% / This rock-solid expression of the appellation marries full, gentle tannins with a wealth of blackberry and cassis aromas. Still plenty of life at the long, fresh finish. 90 (SP)