BEUAJOLAIS: Blanc Revolution

THE OTHER COLOURS OF BEAUJOLAIS: Blanc Revolution 

By Stuart Pigott – last revision: 18.05.26

Beaujolais Blanc: 347 hectares (2024)

Proportion of Total Production: 3% (2024)

Beaujolais-Villages Blanc: 147 hectares (2024)

Proportion of Total Production: 1% (2024)

Beaujolais Rosé: 209 hectares (2024)

Proportion of Total Production: 2% (2024)

Beaujolais-Villages Rosé:   38 hectares (2024)

Proportion of Total Production: 0.5% (2024)

PART ONE: ALL NEW!

FINALLY, the final installment to my 14 part Beaujolais series is published, but for many readers this is counter-intuitiveand forafewit will be plain wrong. Some wines struggle for acceptance in spite of offering very good value for money in popular winestyles, because they look wrong. In the minds of consumers right around Planet Wine Beaujolais is a producer of light red wine, but not of powerful reds,much less dry rosé or dry whites. So, it doesn’t help that they are (for the moment) invariably from the widely loved Chardonnay grape and modest in price.

This is all more or less new, the first significant plantings of Chardonnayin Beaujolais dating back nofurther than 50 years, and the great stylistic diversity of the wines below has come about since I started tasting the wines of the region intensively in 2019. So, WHITE Beaujolais as you encounter it now is VERY NEW. If you haven’t tasted anything the last years, or maybe ever, then this is a new world of French dry white wine. Stepboldly into it and there are some wonderful discoveries to be made!

And the really exciting experimentation has just begun. There are „islands“ of what the Burgundians call argilo-calcaire, or clay-limestone soil in many of the Beaujolais Cru. For example, Julien Revillon of D.Piron purchased land in Morgon with this kind of soilandhas planted it with the goal of making a new high-end Chardonnay. It is well-known that the Pierres Dorées sub-area in the south of Beaujolais has a wealth of land with argilo-calcaire soilslikethose ofBurgundy. My sources spoke of about 2,000 hectares there already planted with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay,whuch of which is going into Bourgogne Rouge, Bourgogne Blanc and Crémantde Bourgougne sparkling wines.  But, Chardonnay in MORGON ! As these wines come on streamduring the coming years the picture is going to change, and I predict this same tasting in five years time will be even more exciting than it is now.

PART TWO: MEET THE MASTERS AND MISTRESSES 

I think it’s worth noting that the two most exciting dry whitesthat I enountered, and therefore the highest-rated winesbelow, both originate from the commune of Blacé. One was made by anon-native, Guillaume Goujon of Domaine Dupré-Goujon that purchased vineyards here for the specific purpose of making high-end Chardonnay. Since he abandoned the idea of imitating Burgundy this wine has soared! The other was made by a Blacé native Jean-Baptiste Bachevillier,aka J.B.. Earlier in this series we encountered both of them in stories about Gamay reds: Goujon in the Côte de Brouilly story, and J.B. in the Beaujolais Villages story. They’re both fanatics for white wine and for Chardonnay. J.B. said something very significant to me after explaining that his Mont Joly vineyard site (about 5 hectares) is the point where three geological formations meet: pink granite, gneis and limestone. „Chardonnay adapts to granite way better than Gamay adapts toargilo-calcaire!“ Given that pink granite is the most common soil type in the region this suggests that the potential with Chardonnay is enormous.

With the challenging 2024 vintage, Sonja Geoffray of the great Château Thivin estate in Côte de Brouilly has also pulled off one of the best Chardonnay sever made in the region, a wine that need not fear comparison with expensive white Burgundies. Then, there’s Elodie Rouselet of Château Bellevue in Morgon who seemedto come from nowhere with her extremely elegant 2024 white Beaujolais. It’s the best white I evere encountered from the Pierres Dorées and confirms the possibilities of this sub-region. So,watch out for these mistresses of white Beaujolais as well as the masters of this category!

Finally - completely under the radar - other ideas are slowly coming to fruition. There is talk of both Riesling and Furmint being planted. SHHHHH! I’ve been sworn to secrecy!

PART THREE: THE PROOF

46 wines tasted, including one with 96 points, one with 95 points and two with 94 points.

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2025 WHITES

Piron  Vin de Franc Blanc  Coq Leon  2025 – 13% / A very juicy, immediately appealing dry white with ample citrus and peach aromas. Very well balanced and expertly crafted, but a tad simple. A cuvée of 93% Chardonnay and 7% Viognier. 88 (SP)

2024 WHITES

Château Bellevue  Beaujolais Blanc  Princesse Lieven  2024 – 13% / A very elegant Burgundian-inspired Chardonnay. Delicately nutty nose. Really silky palate with a fine chalky character that gives it a long, very graceful finale. From 3 organically cultivated plots in the Pierres Dorées sub-region. 94 (SP)

Château Grand Grange  Beaujolais Villages  Chardonnay  La Grange Hasson  2024 – 12.5% / The interplay of buttery creaminess (with a touch of butterscotch) and lively acidity is quite satisfying, but the red apple fruit is on the light and simple side. Some drying tannin at the finish. 87 (SP)

Château des Jacques  Beaujolais Blanc Clos de Loyse  2024 – XX% / The restrained creaminess and cool herbal and lemon aromas of this Chardonnay are married to delicate smoky oak. From a vineyard site close to the Soane river in La Chapelle de Guinchay with deep alluvial deposits over granite bedrock. 93 (SP) 

Château Thivin  Beaujolais Blanc  Clos de Rochebonne Monopole  2024 – 13% / This beautiful Chardonnay marries a wonderful textural richness and delicate hazelnut character with an animating candied citrus peel freshness. Everything fits together so beautifully. Very long creamy finish. From a site over 500 meters above sea level with clay-limestone soil in the Pierres Dorées sub-region. The best ever vintage of this wine! 94 (SP)  

La Chaize  Beaujolais Blanc  2024 – 12.5% / A very well-crafted Chardonnay with an attractive freshness plus white flower, crisp pear character. Good substance and some chalky minerality, the finish fresh and animating. 91 (SP) 

Cyril Coperet  Beaujolais Blanc  2024 – 13% / This elegant Chardonnay remains sleek in spite of good mid-palate creaminess. Delicate citrus aromas ranging from orange blossom to Amalfi lemon zest. Salty minerality at the polished finish. 91 (SP)  

Domaine de Boischampt  Beaujolais Jullié  2024 – 12.5% / Yes, this has some substance, and the leesy creaminess easily balances the bright acidity of this vintage. However, the aromas of fresh herbs and butter are not really fascinating. Clean, but rather simple finish. 89 (SP) 

Domaine de Colette  Beaujolais-Villages Blanc  2024 – 13% / A cool and precisely contoured Chardonnay with a forthrightly lemony personality. The wine is engaging and enticing with a striking combination of mineral freshness and restrained textural complexity. Excellent aging potential! 93 (SP)

Domaine des Fonds  Beaujolais-Villages Blanc  Le Jarlot  2024 – 13% / This is unquestionably a good example of modern white Beaujolais, but it’s no superhero and that makes the packaging (complete with very heavy bottle) a bit pretentious. Nice candied apple and pear character on the medium-bodied palate. Clean and very balanced finish. 90 (SP)

Domaine Forétal  Beaujolais-Villages Blanc  2024 – 13% / This is certainly as good as a bunch of unoaked Bourgogne Blancs, the ample creaminess balancing the lively apple and lemon freshness. A bit simple and short. 87 (SP)

Domaine Gaget  Beaujolais  Chardonnay  Les Galets  2024 - ??% / Not complex, but the generous, well-rounded body is brimming with dried pear and candied lemon character. Long, quite firmly structured finish with good minerality. 92 (SP)

Domaine Les Garcons  Beaujolais  Chardonnay  2024 – 13% / This has terrific presence and textural tension (yes, I know that sounds strange, but I can’t say it better!) Stacks of mandarin orange and bergamot character on the bold and crisp palate.  Long, structured and youthful finish! Excellent aging potential. 94 (SP) 

Domaine Mee Godard  Beaujolais Blanc  2024 – 12.5% / The deep nose of candied orange peel with a delicate smokiness announces a remarkable Chardonnay! Bold and structured for a wine with 12.5% this rolls over your palate in a big wave. Excellent integration of oak tannins and well-rounded fullish body. From the Croix Rouge site of Belleville with a clay-rich soil. 93 (SP)

Domaine des Marrans  Beaujolais Blanc  Chardonnay  2024 – 12.5% / A frank and friendly wine with plenty of lime and garden herb freshness. There’s a nice tension between this and the touch of leesy creaminess and candied orange peel flavour. Slight touch of tannin at the finish. 89 (SP)

Domaine Baptiste Monnet  Beaujolais Blanc  2024 – 12.5% / The full-throttle butterscotch character makes this generous Chardonnay a bit one-sided on the front palate, but the peanut butter at the finish adds some character and the lemony acidity lifts it. 86 (SP) 

Domaine de Mont Joly  Beaujolais Blacé  Les Cerisiers 2024 – 13% / Sweet pomelo fruit, an ample structure and a crisp acidity make this a serious Chardonnay. Quite some length.  From vines growing on both gneis and clay-limestone soils. Matured in a concrete tank for a year. 92 (SP)

Domaine des Nugues  Beaujolais-Lancié Blanc 2024 – 13% / A fresh and well-rounded Chardonnay with no perceptible oak, but an animating herbal freshness. Crisp finish in spite of full malolactic fermentation. 88 (SP)

Domaine Oedipoda  Beaujolais-Jullié Blanc  Chardonnay  2024 – 12%/ There’s nothing dramatic about this white Beaujolais, but it has very good balance and a silkiness that’s as delightful as the delicate buttery character that’s interwoven with candied lemon freshness on the elegant palate. Long subtle finish. 92 (SP)   

Domaine du Petit Pérou  Beaujolais  Terrain Roge  2024 – 12.5% / Very crisp, in fact some may find the acidity a bit strident, particularly at the finish. The mid-palate has an interesting interplay of restrained creaminess, red apple fruit and a touch of stony austerity. 88 (SP)

Domaine Riviere  Beaujolais Pierres Dorées  Saint Trys  2024 – 12% / Light-bodied, but nicely creamy with a bright lemon jelly flavour this might be simple, but I’m sure many readers would enjoy a glass of this. 87 (SP)

Dupré-Goujon  Beaujolais-Villages Chardonnay  2024 – 13% / Crisp and mineral with racy acidity, this is a daringly energetic dry white for the appellation, but has more body than those words suggest. Long, clean and precise finish. Vinified in concrete tanks. 92 (SP)

Frédéric Berne  Beaujolais-Lantignié Les Bruyères  2024 – 12% / This is one for natural wine freaks thanks to the strong flinty character (from intense reduction). This, the moderate alcohol level and the crisp acidity make this quite an austere wine on the sleek palate. Please enjoy this if it’s your thing, but I can’t avoid the conclusion that this would be more exciting if it was a bit less extreme. 89 (SP)  

Famille Girin  Beaujolais Blanc  Séduction de Chardonnay  2024 – 12.5% / The aromas of spring blossoms and herbs pull you into this sleek and bright dry white that’s all about refreshment. 88 (SP)

Jean-Marc Lafont  Beaujolais  Chardonnay  2024 – 13% / Don’t be put off by the deep colour, because this has a surprising richness and some textural complexity. I love the aromas of tarte au citron and floral honey. Beautifully integrated candied lemon acidity with a touch of oyster shell character. 93 (SP)

Laura Lardy  Beaujolais-Villages Blanc  Chardonnay 2024 – 13% / The vibrant pear fruit and the seamless harmony of restrained creaminess with lemon blossom freshness makes this an elegant beauty. Long, if not super-complex finish From vines growing on a mix of granite, limestone and sedimentary soils. Matured for 3 months in demi muid oak casks. 92 (SP) 

Yohan Lardy  Beaujolais-Villages Blanc Les Bruyères  2024 – 13% /

The bright nose of candied lemon and floral honey pulls you into this elegant and impeccably balanced Chardonnay. Good leesy complexity on the mid-palate, then a very long, fresh finish thanks to the mineral acidity. Vinfied 80% in tank and 20% in small Burgundian oak. 93 (SP)

Famille Mélinon  Beaujolais  Chardonnay  2024 – 13% / The juicy pear fruit and lemony freshness make this an attractive dry white, and it has some depth and length. A bit simple. 88 (SP)

Olivier Pezenneau  Beaujolais Blanc Les Pierres Dorées  2024 – 12.5% / Some substance, but the dried lemon peel aroma is a bit simplistic and tannins dominate the very light palate. 82 (SP)

D. Piron  Beaujolais Blanc  2024 – 12.5% / A good introduction to the new whites of this region, this rather elegant Chardonnay has a wealth of delicate candied citrus flavours, also notes of spring flowers and a zesty freshness at the finish. 90 (SP)

Dominique Piron  Bourgogne Blanc  2024 – 13% /  The interplay of buttery creaminess with a candied pineapple character and a chalky crispness on the medium-bodied palate that’s not only about acidity. Just a hint of smoky oak. From a 2 hectare sized block just outside Bellville. Matured 85% in tank and 15% in Burgundian barrels. 92 (SP)

Piron  Comtés Rhodaniens  Viognier  2024 – 12.5% / Very striking nose of ripe yellow peach, lemon cream and toffee. Rich and well-rounded, but with modest body for this grape variety (which so easily tends to give bombastic and overblown wines) a touch of bitterness and some oaky character adding complexity at the supple and delicate finish. 92 (SP)

Vigneronnes des Pierres Dorées  Beaujolais  Pierres Dorées  La Rose Blanche  2024 – 12.5% / The freshness of this light and crisp Chardonnay is delightful and at the finish there’s a touch of fresh butter that neatly balances the bright yellow apple flavour. 90 (SP)

Vigneronnes des Pierres Dorées  Beaujolais Blanc Terroir des Pierres Dorées  Crysope Vert  2024 – 12.5% / I love the spring-like freshness of this wine and it’s effortless harmony of restrained creaminess (from lees) and wet-stone freshness on the elegant palate. 91 (SP)  

Antoine Viland  Beaujolais  Chardonnay  2024 – 13% / At once fresh, juicy and well-rounded this is well-made and easy to enjoy, but very simple. 85 (SP) 

2023 WHITES

Château Pougelon  Beaujolais Blanc “Pierres Dorées”  2023 – 12.5% / With its forthright aroma of ripe pears and well-crafted creaminess, this is an appealing white Beaujolais. With a bit more textural complexity it would be even better, but it has quite a bit to offer. 90 (SP)

Arnaud Combier  Beaujolais Blanc  Chardonnay  2023 – 13% / The aromas of candied citrus leap out of the glass at you, and I find that a bit obvious. Already fully developed on the ample palate this needs drinking before the fruit fades. 88 (SP)

Domaine Lathuilière Gravallon  Beaujolais Blanc  Roche Noire  2023 – 12.9% / This is a harmonious, medium-bodied dry white, but lacks a bit of character and fades at the finish. Already tiring a bit. 86 (SP)

Domaine de Mont Joly  Beaujolais Blacé  Les Blancs  2023 – 13% / A very concentrated and beautifully balanced wine that’s just beginning to develop, but already has a terrific interplay of floral honey, stone minerality and Amalfi lemon character. Super-long, pure and precise finish. From vines growing on calcareous marl soil. Matured in demi muid oak casks for 15 months, then bottled unfiltered. 95 (SP) 

Domaine di Moulin Berger  Beaujolais Blanc  L’instant Chardonnay  2023 – 13.5% / This is quite generous and creamy, but all I get is pear drops and the palate is rather well-rounded, but the finish is short and boring. 86 (SP)   

Dupré-Goujon  Beaujolais-Villages Blanc Clos des Mûriers  2023 – 13% / The greatest white Beaujolais I ever tasted! What a beautiful nose of lemon curd, fresh almonds and wild flowers. Stunning combination of restrained textural richness and chalky minerality on the very elegant palate. Extremely long, refined finish! 96 (SP)

Du Vin à L’Ame  Beaujolais Blanc Pierres Dorées  Imagine  2023 – 12.5% / Although this natural wine is quite mature with orange jelly and caramelized apple aromas, there’s a healthy tannin structure and plenty of textural interest for a wine well below 13% alcohol. 91 (SP)

Du Vin à L’Ame  Beaujolais Blanc Pierres Dorées  Ensemble C’est Tour  2023 – 13.5% / A very striking expression of natural Chardonnay in Beaujolais, this is creamy and mellow, well-structured and quite delicate. Yes, there’s some mature caramelized apple character, but the finish is driven by wet-stone freshness. 92 (SP)

2025 ROSÉ

Domaine des Nugues  Beaujolais Rosé  2025 – 12.5% / If it’s a hot day, then the moment for this wine has come! Vibrant aromas of nectarine, white peach and pink roses. Very zesty on the crisp and light-bodied palate. 90 (SP)

Piron  Beaujolais Rosé  2025 – 12.5% / A very bright and light dry rosé with an animating freshness, the delicate floral and red berry aromas, plus a touch of pink grapefruit at the crisp fnish. 90 (SP)

2024 ROSÉ

Château de Javernand  Beaujolais-Villages Rosé  Rose de Gamay  2024 – 12.5% / With its nectarine, mandarin orange and strawberry aromas this is an appealing rosé with enough zesty freshness to balance. Slightly tannic at the finish. 88 (SP)