EGER: Beautiful Blood on the Tracks

By Stuart Pigott- last revision 30.05.26

PART ONE: Bloody Good Wines!

Bulls Blood and I go back along way, back to chaotic 1970s Britain around the time punk rock and Margaret Thatcher burst upon the world, when I first tasted it at a party. At that time there was plenty of Eastern European wine on the British market, not least Lutomer Laski Riesling a rough and tart dry white made from the Welschriesling / Riesling Italico grape in what is now Slovenia. I remember how my first Bulls Blood was OK, but a bit thin and dull. Given the promise of the name - something robust with animalistic energy - this was a disappointment. I decided that it was something to drink if Lutomer Laski Rizling was the other option, then I forgot it becasue more interesting modestly-priced red wines from various places in France, Spain and Portugal came along. 

It was with this in the back of my mind that I first visited Eger, the home of Bikavér aka Bulls Blood, in March 2022. That day was a revelation, because nearly all wines I encountered were expressisve and distinctive, the best of them deep and fascinating. Their diversity reflected the fact that Egri Bikavér is always a cuvées of 4 - 13 grape varieties based on Kékfrankos aka Blaufränkisch aka Lemberger, which must always be in the majority. Back then it was very striking that although Egri Bikavér often contains some Cabernet Sauvignon and/or Merlot and/or Syrah - French grapes that easily dominate cuvées they get put in - none of these wines had a personality that came across as copying anything French. Instead, they were all tasted very diffeent, yes, Hungarian. I can’t think of another place in the world where the local grapes always dominate the French ones in this way. Whoa!

PART TWO: Deep Down, Deeper and Down

For me as a wine journalist re-search always means looking, listening, smelling and tasting again with the doors of perception wide open, so I can discover and re-discover the truth in wine. And one of the first things that I discovered when I returned to Eger was how well the best wines cope with a generous alcoholic content. None more so than the amazingly silky and filigree St. Andrea  Egri Bikavér Grand Superior  Agapé  2021 which has 15.5% alcohol. 

Please, don’t get me wrong, I am NOT trying to persuade you that all great red wines need this kind of high alcoholic content to taste good, because that’s not true. Nor am I trying to get winemakers to push up the alcoholic content of their reds: quite the opposite! All I'm saying is that in this case the wine carries this heavy load with astonishing ease, proving that this is possible in Eger and Hungary. And if you scroll down you will find a bunch of other Eger reds that pull off this „trick“ at 14.5% alcohol. So that show-stopping wine  is not an exception, much less a freak. So, just as Egri Bikaver reds often deftly absorb the character of French grape varieties, they do the same for generous alcohol.

The base of all this is the Kékfrankos grape, but as a varietal wine it mostly tastes best with no more than 14% alcohol, and the majortiy of the best wines are in the 13% - 13.5% zone. So, I think the secret is the way that the tannins of this grape interact with those from the other grape varieties in the cuvée. And this process seems to function best when the blending process at least starts early in the wine’s life. Some would say the earlier the better! A moderate amount of new oak amongst the casks it is aged in also seems to be positive, which is clearly something Bikavér shares with Kékfrankos / Blaufränkisch / Lemberger. A lively acidity - partly from the primary grape in the cuvée and partly due to the „cool“ climate is another piece of the puzzle. The coolness comes from the high altitude of many of the 5,618 hectares of vineyards - up to more than 500 meters above sea level - and the roughly 10,000 hectares of forest around the vineyards.

The distinctivness of the wines extends further though, since the highest level of the three tier Eger Bikáver classification - Egri Bikavér Grand Superior - is reserved for single-vineyard wines. And although this isn’t totally reliable, the wines from the top producers certainly seem to show vineyard character. The potential here is enormous, since there 71 single vineyard sites in Eger (of which 32 can be used for the production of Egri Bikavér Grand Superior); the highest number in the entire country. You don’t need to buy one of them to get a very good wine, most of the wines from the middle tier - Egri Bikavér Superior - were also impressive. On the other hand, all the wines that got 95+ scores - two from St. Andrea and three from Gál Tibor - were all Egri Bikavér Grand Superior.

I tasted all the wines at the new Tibor Gál Jr.’s "new" cellars in Eger where the barrel aging of all his wines has taken place since 2014 (and shortly the fermentation cellar will also be on site). „All we had to do was remove the old car tyres and move in! Previously it was used as a car repair garage. It’s over 500 years old,“ he told me during a tour that turned into a deep discussion about where Eger and Hungarian wine comes from and where they're going. For a long moment I had the feeling that outside the cellar time had stopped, though that couldn't be the case,

„My father was a big fan of Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, but after he died I moved in the direction of traditional winemaking,“ he explained, „from 2013 I focused on Bikavér. Since then we reduced the amount of barrel aging and we increased the proportion of Kékfrankos in the wines.“ The results were yet more distinctive and subtle than what I tasted here four years ago.

PART THREE: Eger Traditions...and the Plot Thickens

My MA (from the Royal College of Art in London) is in cultural history and those two years taught me how to think. My 40 years of experience of the cultural history of wine since then leads me to the conclusion that there's almost never a singular tradition - The Tradition - rather in different periods different things were regarded as correct, typical, old-fashioned, progressive, etc. And this means that in each region where winemaking has been done for more than a couple of generations there are traditions. If a winemaker says to me that a particular wine is "traditional" in style, then my first instinct is to ask which period in time she or he is referring to. After some research I see the history of Eger winesand the story of the region's traditions like this:

Some time after the Turkish siege of Eger in 1552 the Kadarka grapes reached Hungary, then spread widely across country, probably due to its excellent drought-resistance. By 200 years ago when the Bikavér name was first recorded in connection with wine, the typical Eger red wine was almost certainly made from a field blend of grape varieties including Kadarka. The first mention of Bikavér from Eger is from 1851, but it seems unlikely Kékfrankos was already present by then. It almost certainly arrived in Hungary from its Austrian homeland during the wave of replantinng that followed the arrvial of the Phelloxera plague. And this was also the time that the Bordeaux grapes arrived in the country. In 1981 István Sugár wrote that the first record of Egri Bikavér containing Kékfrankos - plus Kadarka, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merliot - dates from 1912, so the tradition that the new wines refer to is primarily the turn of the 19th to 20th centuries.

Why did Kékfrankos keep expanding during the half century prior to the Communist period? It has more colour, tannin and acidity than Kadarka, plus it ripens more evenly and is less susceptibal to rot (because it has a thicker skin than Kadarka). And why was my first Bulls Blood so disappointing? It seems that during the Communist period a lot of vineyards were replanted with the high-yeilding Zweigelt grape, an import from Austria. Regardless where it is grown, take the full crop that's possible and the result tends to be boring. At this time wine production in most European regions was more about qantity than quality. The then Hungarian Government attached Marxist-Leninist thinking to the striving for more, More, MORE instead of the free market economics that the West did.

Even if some of the details of the sketchy it points to a long process of change and development, the introduction of the Egri Bikavér regulations of 1997 marking the beginning of the current phase. The contemporary situation of Eger strongly shaped by climate change which made some varieties less well-suited to the region. The bigbest looser appears to be Pinot Noir, (because harvest period heat can „burn out“ some of the aromatics and cause the acidity to fall dramatically (somthing that can also happen in its Burgundian homeland). Of course, this and the prospect of the alcoholic content climbing even further put question marks over the future of Eger, but today you find similar question marks in wine regions all over Planet Wine. Eger isn’t immune, because nowhere is!

40 wines tasted, including one with 96 and four with 95.

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DRY WHITES

St. Andrea  Egri Csillag Superior  Örökké  2024 - 13.5% / Joyfully floral nose with notes of white peach, grapefruit and passion fruit. Terrific tension between this cornucopia of fruit and floral flavours with zesty acidityand fine tannins. The touch of oak tannins deftly supporting the long finish. A cuvée of Hárslevelü, Furmint, Sauvignon Blanc, Szükebarát aka Pinot Gris, Olaszrisling and Viognier that was matured in Hungarian oak for 6 months.  94 (SP)

Gál Lajos  Egri  Gratiae 2021 - 14.5% /  A big, rich wine for this grape variety with an explansive aroma of ripe Mirabelle plums. Now very well-rounded with a svery satisfying combination of textural complexity, creaminess and candied citrus freshness. Long, moderately tannic finish. The last vintage of this Olaszriesling from the Kantor-Tag vineyard site. 93 (SP)

Gál Tibor  Egri Csillag  2025 - 12.5% / Very fresh with a forthright nose of lemon blossom. Fresh and juicy, but also many-layered with an attractive combination of textural complexity and citrusy vitality. Surprising length, the touch of tannin adding interest to the finish. A cuvée of 8 varieties ranging from the indigenous Harslevelu to Sauvignon Blanc! 92 (SP)

Kovács Nimrod Winery  Egri  Furmint  SKY Nagy-Eged  2023 - 14.5% /  A bold expression of the Furmint with ripe orange and apricot fruit plus a freshness that pushes the wine’s power somewhat into the background. The toasty oak is already well integrated.  Moderately tannic finish. Fermented in stainless steel, then matured in 225 and 500 liter French and Hungarian oak barrels.  Named after the owner’s first grandchild. 91 (SP)

Nap-Völgy  Egri  Negy-Eged  Grand Superior Fehér Cuvée  2020 - 14% / An attractively rich dry white with stacks of coconut and vanilla from oak. However, the wine is surprisinglyx fresh for this style and age. A cuvée of Chardonnay, Furmint and Hárslevelü with one third of each.  87 (SP)

Sándor Zsolt  Hungary  Freyja Natural Wine  2024 - 12% / A very well made natural white that’s frank, clean and refreshing. Appealing balance of creaminess, restrained tannin and enough acidity. The aromatics of the Cserszegi Füszeres grape only show a little at the grapefruit finish. The leesy haze is a positive feature. From the Bükk region. Bottled unfiltered and unfined. 88 (SP)

Sándor Zsolt  Hungary  Freyja Natural Wine  2025 - 12% / Juicy with a touch of caramelized orange and pear character. Verynice balance of leesy creaminess (it has a slight haze), animating acidity and just a touch of tannin. Lively, moderately dry finish. Made from the Cserszegi Füszeres grape from the Bükk region. Bottled unfiltered and unfined. 89 (SP) 

Sándor Zsolt  Hungary  Anna Luca Natural Wine  2025 - 13% / This is a very wellmade orange wine that’s clean and has stacks of candied orange peel character. The tannins are well matched to the textural richness on the medium body. From the Bükk region. This was partially fermented on the skins and partially with semi-carbonic maceration (think Beaujolais).  Bottled unfiltered and unfined. 90 (SP) 

KADARKA REDS

Tóth Ferenc  Egri Kadarka  Superior  2023 - 13% / A beautifully ripe, many-layered and subtly spicy wine for this underrated grape variety. Well-structured by the gentle and discreet tannins, the long finish deftly lifted by the mineral acidity. 93 (SP)

KÉKFRANKOS REDS

Nap-Völgy  Egri Grand Superior  Kékfrankos  Negy-ed 333  2020 - 15% / Brimming with vanilla oak, but this pulls that off and 15% without ending up massive or too drying. In fact, if you like plenty of oak, this could be a very nice wine that’s got enough freshness and well-crafted tannins. 89 (SP)

MEDINA REDS

Sándor Zsolt  Hungary  Medea Natural Wine  2018 - 14% /   Although this is full-bodied, well-rounded and has some healthy tannins the first impression is of flowers and wild berries. The tannins are on the soft side, but there’splenty of them at the finish. Made from the Medina grape, a Hungarian crossing. From the Bükk region. Bottled unfiltered and unfined. 88 (SP)

PINOT NOIR REDS

Kovács Nimrod Winery  Egri  Pinot Noir  777  2024 - 15% /  An expansive Pinot Noir but the sour cherry and raspberry aromas aren’t overripe. The tannins aren’t hard, but there’s quite a mass of them on the full-bodied palate and this makes for a  slightly blunt finish. Matured for just half a year in 225 and 500 liter barrels with French and Hungarian oak. 89

Tóth Ferenc  Egri Pinot Noir  Superior  2023 - 13% /  A remarkably delicate and subtly aromatic Pinot Noir for Hungary, alsostillvery youthful. The fine-grained tannins and bright acidity also stand out. Long liquorice and wet earth finish.  Matured for 15 months in 500 liter oak barrels. 91 (SP)

ZWEIGELT REDS

Sándor Zsolt  Hungary  Legény Natural Wine  2021 - 13.5% / Lifted nose of cherry and blueberry. Much more tannin than the norm for this grape and they give it both substance and a frankly dry personality. From the Bükk region. Bottled unfiltered and unfined. 89 (SP)

EGRI BIKAVÉR REDS

St. Andrea  Egri Bikavér Superior  Merengö  2022 - 14.5% / A very striking red with a wide spectrum of aromas - from red berries to summer flowers via pomegranate. and delicate spice - then a firmly structured, yet beautifully polished palate with excellent concentration and freshness. Self-confidently dry finish. A cuvée of Kékfrankos, Merlot,PinotNoir, Cabernet Franc, Syrah and Kadarka that is blended from many vineyard sites. Matured for 16 months in 500 liter casks of Hungarian oak. 94 (SP)

St. Andrea  Egri Bikavér Grand Superior  Hangäcs  2022 - 14.5% /  This charismatic Egri Bikavér has a very complex nose of red roses, smoke and spice. Extremely concentrated and focused, the racy acidity interlocking miraculously well with the compact, fine tannins. Extremely long, spicy and balsamic finish. The Hangäcs site has thin volcanic soil, but also islands of limestone. A cuvée based on 60% Kékfrankos that was matured for 16 months in 500 liter casks of Hungarian oak. 96 (SP)

St. Andrea  Egri Bikavér Grand Superior  Agapé  2021 - 15.5% /  You can tastes the insdrible ripeness that the grapes achieved in this unique location! The super-silky tannins are interwoven into a fabulous tapestry of red fruit aromas in the way that I associate with great red Burgundy, but this has a spiciness those wines lack. Extremely long filigree finish. A tiny yield from the high altitude Nagy-Eged-Hegy vineyard site that has a limestone soil. A cuvée based on Kékfrankos with Syrah, Merlot, Pinot Noir and Kadarka that was matured for 16 months in 500 liter casks of Hungarian oak. 97 (SP)

Bölt  Egri Bikavér Superior  2024 - 14% / Very dark nose of elderberry, wild blackberry, candied orange and baking spices. Quite some tannins on the well-structured palate. Very straight, and crisp, moderately dry finish.  A cuvée based on Kékfrankos with Cabernet Sauvignon, Zweigelt, Pinot Noir and Blauburger that was matured for a year in mostly Hungarian oak. Still very young! 92 (SP)

Bölt  Egri Bikavér Superior  2022 - 13.5% /  Now beginning to mature nicely,this is quitean elegant wine for this style that can quickly become quiter massive and alcoholic. Aromas of candied orange peel and spices alongside the red plum fruit. A cuvée based on Kékfrankos with Cabernet Sauvignon, Zweigelt, Pinot Noir and Blauburger that was matured for a year in mostly Hungarian oak. 90 (SP)

Bölt  Egri Bikavér Superior  Selection  2024 - 14% /  Excellent tension from the mineral acidity and exciting tannins. Still very young, but with an impressive combination of ripe red berry fruits and delicate spicy aromas on the clean and bright palate. Long compact finish. A cuvée based on 65% Kékfrankos with Pinot noir plus small amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon and Zweigelt that was matured in first and second-fill 300 liter barrels of Hungarian oak for 12 months. 93 (SP)

Bölt  Egri Bikavér Superior  Selection  2022 - 13% / Supple and elegant with lenty of delicate spice, dried cherry and lemon peel flavours. Still some healthy tannins, but the fruit is more than adequate to carry this. A cuvée based on 65% Kékfrankos with Pinot Noir plus small amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon and Zweigelt that was matured in first and second-fill 300 liter barrels of Hungarian oak for 12 months. 92 (SP)

Bolyki  Egri Bikavér  (Bull Label) 2022 - 13.5% / The peony aroma pull,s you into this well-rounded and moderately dry Bikavér. Nice dried cherry and red plum fruit is wrapped around moderately dry tannins. Polished finish that pulls you back for more. 91 (SP)

Bolyki  Egri Bikavér  Bolyki - Bolyki  2022 - 14% / A rich and fleshy wine for Bikavér with a touch of raisined fruit character and warmth from alcohol on the mid-palate. Simple and short, moderately dry finish. 84 (SP) 

Bolyki  Egri Bikavér  Grand Superior Öreg-hegy dülo  2020 - 14% / A rich and powerful Bikavér that’s now starting to round out. Amarena cherry and bitter chocolate aromas. Ample tannins at the very rich and generous finish. 87 (SP)

Gál Lajos  Egri Bikaver Superior 2024 - 14.5% /  Packed with bright and ripe red plum and berry fruits including a touch of wild strawberry. This is deftly underlined by fine-grained tannins that give it a really long and graceful wine  A cuvée based on Kékfrankos. Matured in well-used small oak casks (mainly French) and bottled in April 2026. 93 (SP)

Gál Lajos  Egri Bikaver Grand Superior Pajados  2024 - 14.5% /  The deep, pomegranate and mulberry nose is quite extravegant, but it pulls you into this rich, fleshy wine. The fine tannins and liquoric richness are well balanced at the  long, supple finish. A cuvée based on Kékfrankos from a vineyard with an extreme volcanic tuff soil. Sadly, the last vintage of this wine. 92 (SP)

Gál Lajos  Egri Bikaver Grand Superior Sík-Hegy  2024 - 14.5% /  The red plum fruit pours from the glass of this generous and fleshy Bikavér. Just as you think there could be a hint of warmth from alcohol the serious tannins move in and make an assertive statement. Needs some time for all of this totully integrate, but the long finish is impressive. A cuvée based on Kékfrankos, Cabernet Frank, Merlot and Kadarka. Bottled after one and a half years maturation in small oak casks.  93 (SP)

Gál Tibor  Egri Bikavér Superior  Labirintus  2023 - 13% / This confidently walks the tightrope between fruity charm and earthy structure, the complex red fruit aromas suggesting a hint of sweetness, the tannins a moderate dryness. The long finish has notes of liquorice and dry earth. Very discreet oak. 92 (SP) 

Gál Tibor  Egri Bikavér Superior  S.D. Gloria  2022 - 13.5% /  A cool and aromatic Bikavér with restrained power and fine tannins.I love the peony and red rose aromas as much as the subtle clove, allspice and liquorice notes behind them. The velvety tannins gently build at the long, emphatically dry yet refined finish that reminds me a bit of Barbaresco. Just the second vintage of this wine. 94 (SP)

Gál Tibor  Egri Bikavér Grand Superior  Pajados  2023 - 13.5% /  This amazing Bikavér effortlessly squares the circle of classical restraint and unashamed hedonism. The nose reminds me of the French dessert fruits rouge, yet the wine is very elegantly dry. Such a long subtle and detailed finish,it makes me want to linger as long as I can. From a single-vineyard on volcanic tuff soil. 96 (SP)

Gál Tibor  Egri Bikavér Grand Superior  Síkhegy  2021 - 14% / How could you not love this beautifully rounded and generous, yet cool and bright red? Brimming with sour cherry and fresh plum aromas plus delicate spice. Then comes the long finish that’s simultaneously silky and moderately dry. From a vineyard site with a deep, clay-rich soil. 95 (SP) 

Gál Tibor  Egri Bikavér Grand Superior  Síkhegy  2018 - 14.5% /  Very fresh, crisp and straight in spite of the ample alcohol. Silky tannins that time in the bottle has surely softened further, making it yet more graceful and subtle. It’s delightful how light on its feet this is and how well the power is underplayed.  From a vineyard site with a deep, clay-rich soil. 95 (SP) 

Kovács Nimrod Winery  Egri Bikavér  Rhapsody 2023 - 14% / Fleshy and supple with plenty of red berryfruit and an attractive spiciness on the moderately dry medium-bodied palate. Quite tannic finish. A cuvée based on 50% Kékfrankos plus 20% Pinot Noir, 15% Merlot and 15% Syrah that was matured in 225 and 500 liter barrels of French, American and Hungarian oak. 89 (SP)

Nap-Völgy  Egri Bikavér Superior  Békesség  2022 - 14% / Very clean and fresh for a wine of this category, but there’s a slug of vanilla oak andample tannins in here. Less would have been more,but well made. 88 (SP)

Nap-Völgy  Egri Bikavér Grand Superior  Negy-ed  2018 - 15% / A big, powerful red that’s maturing nicely. Deep blackberry fruit with notes of cocoa powder and liquorice with toasty and vanilla oak.  Long finish in which the alcohol is very well integrated. 91 (SP) 

Tóth Ferenc  Egri Bikavér Superior  2022 - 13% / A cool and elegant expression of Bikavér, but at first a bit closed on the nose (i.e.stilla bit young). Then, with aeration precise red berry and peony aromas. Crisp, long finish with excellent mineral freshness. 93 (SP) 

Tóth Ferenc  Egri Bikavér Grand Superior  Várvédö Sík-Hegy Dülö  2022 - 13% / A powerful, yet fresh Bikavér and a compact tannic core. With a touch of sweetness from American oak and a crisp acidity that lifts the substantial whole. After a little aeration this gains a lot of smoke, tar and spice, becoming evermore fascinating. A cuvée based on Kékfrankos with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Syrah. From a site with volanic soiland some limestone. 94 (SP)

RED CUVÉES

Kovács Nimrod Winery  Egri NJK Nagy-Eged  2018 - 14% / For a concentrated, high-end Hungarian red this is moderately tannic and already balanced enought to drink now (particularly if you decant it). Take some time to pick up all the spicy and smoky nuances. Full-bodied, yet restrained palate with a long, complete finish. A 50/50 blend of Kékfrankos and Syrah that was matured for two years in 225 and 500 liter brrels of French, American and Hungarian oak. Filled in a heavy glass bottle. 94 (SP)

Sándor Zsolt  Hungary  (Deep) Purple Natural Wine  2021 - 13.5% / Frank dried cherry fruit is married to smoky oak and ample,moderately dry tannins on the rather full-bodied palate. Long, quite boldly tannic finish. A cuvée of 70% Zweigelt, 20% Pinot Noir and 10% Medina from the Bükk region that was matured in high-toast 500 liter barrels. And yes, it was named after the rock group. Bottled unfiltered and unfined. 90 (SP)

Sándor Zsolt  Hungary  Anna Luca Natural Wine  2021 - 14.5% /  The other varieties really flesh out and accentuate the blueberry and black cherry fruit of this natural red. Very good ripeness right through the palate, the tannins fine and very well integrated. Still fresh! A cuvée of Zweigelt, Pinot Noir, Syrah and Medina from the Bükk region. Bottled unfiltered and unfined. 91 (SP)