FRANKEN 2025: The Year of Silvaner

By Tim Eichelberger - last revision 16.06.25

Posting this story was delayed by travel and illness, but these wines have yet to attract the attention they deserve, so it has lost none of its relevance.

It’s no secret that Silvaner has long lived in Riesling’s shadow and the German wine region of Franken aka Franconia has made it its flagship varietal. Here, Silvaner is woven into regional identity, and most of the wines are famously filled in the iconic Bocksbeutel, the squat, rounded flask long emblematic of Franken wine. (However, in recent years flute and Burgundy bottles have been increasingly used in the region).

Despite Silvaner’s arrival in Germany at Castell/Franken in 1659, that deep history hasn’t always translated into global acclaim. One reason for this may be that, Franken is located in the north of Bavaria and it’s wine culture has often been overshadowed by the beer culture synonymous with that state. Also, Franken itself is home to a slew of excellent small breweries, so beer and wine really live side by side there. Meanwhile, Riesling-focused regions like the Rheingau, Mosel, and Pfalz enjoy international recognition (and often higher price points) for their wines. Some argue that Franken’s steadfast loyalty to Silvaner - long seen as a “workhorse” grape, because pre-WWI it was the dominant grape variety in German vineyards - has actually held it back. 

The wines of the 2025 vintage challenge that narrative. In 2025, dry Silvaner emerges not as a mere workhorse, but as a refined expression of terroir. Based on my experience at the Mainzer Weinbörse wine trade fair in late April 2026 the 2025 vintage from Franken - and particularly the dry Silvaners - frequently offer a tannic structure that’s soft and elegant, and prove that these wines deserves to be taken seriously right around Planet Wine.

Peter Geil, Managing Director of the Castell winery (full name: Fürstlich Castell’sches Domänenamt) described 2025 as a year of extremes. The growing season was picture-perfect, with vineyards looking as if they’s been painted by the time harvest was rolling around. However, just as picking began, the vineyards were hit by a downpour of 10 centimeters of rain. Normally, the harvest at Castell takes six weeks, but in 2025, they condensed it into three weeks in order to navigate the weather. Peter confirmed that the season is no longer short due to climate change, and he considers Castell a “climate winner,” situated about 250 meters above Würzburg, offering cooler conditions and a longer growing season. These conditions make it possible for them to produce wines with cool-climate characteristics and ample power from the gypsum-marl soils. (Most of Franken's vineyards are planted on limestone and there's red sandstone in the west).

2025 was challenging, but the outcome is excellent and for Castell incomparable with previous vintages. Among the Franken wines I tasted, only two scored just below 90, an experience that mirrored my Rheingau tastings, though in a completely different way. At the Weinbörse, after tasting nearly 100 Rheingau Rieslings, I turned to Franken. Suffice it to say, my expectations reflected those preconceived notion of Silvaner and Franken, and were correspondingly lower. While I hold enormous respect for Rheingau’s world-class Rieslings there’s a tendency, even in Germany, to default to Riesling as the "ultimate" grape varietal. However, at this website we don’t do default settings, and instead of letting AI reinforce preconceptions we seek to approach each wine based on how it smells and tastes. I’d tasted a few Silvaner gems before, but the 2025s blew me away. 

Just as I challenged my biases, I suggest that the broader wine world (the German market included) should be open and able to challenge theirs. Silvaner, as well as Franken Riesling and Pinot Noir - like those from Fürst and Castell - are producing world-class wines. In the end, whether you grew up with Riesling, Silvaner, Pinot or wines from completely different grape varietaly, it’s worth rattling assumptions, because greatness in wine isn’t confined to any one grape or region. To ignore 2025 Silvaner from Franken would not simply be to overlook a very distinctive grape; it would be to miss one of the most exciting German wine stories of the year.

Note: I tasted a number of excellent single-vineyard wines from the 2025 vintage, but we will report about them a bit later in a separate story.

19 wines tasted, including two with 94 and two with 93

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DRY SILVANER

Bickel-Stumpf  Franken  Silvaner  von den Bergen  2025 – 12.0% / A lovely introduction to the region, this dry Silvaner offers a splendid structure with fine, silky tannins. Extremely fresh and easy to drink, it highlights the finesse of its hillside origins. 91 (TE)

Bickel-Stumpf  Franken  Silvaner  Buntsandstein  2025 – 13.0% / A fresh and elegant dry Silvaner, this pure expression of the varietal sparkles with vibrant acidity. Beautiful crunchy green apple fruit leads the way in this refined, lively wine. 91 (TE)

Bickel-Stumpf  Franken  Silvaner  Muschelkalk  2025 – 13.5% / This is a beautifully elegant dry Silvaner, brimming with ripe pear, straw, and a subtle touch of chalk. The tannins are fine and chalky, while the bright acidity makes each sip a true pleasure. 92 (TE) 

Bürgerspital   Franken  Silvaner  trocken  2025 – ??% / Peach and garden herbs mingle with a touch of jasmine blossom on the juicy finish. This warm, exotic-fruited Silvaner leans into a richer, creamier style. Though a bit on the broad side, it will appeal to those who enjoy a lush, easy-going dry white. 89 (TE)

Castell  Franken  Silvaner  trocken  2025 – 12.0% / From vineyards close to the Steigerwald forest, and fermented in casks of the estate’s own oak, this dry Silvaner offers a warm baked peach aroma that draws you in. Sleek, creamy, and balanced, it’s a shining example of Franken craftsmanship. Elegant yet approachable, this is Silvaner at its most polished. 92 (TE)

Fürst  Franken  Silvaner  Estate trocken  2025 – 11.5% / Ripe peach and elderflower offer an elegant aromatic structure, with a touch of orange blossom lingering into the finish. This Silvaner shines with crisp clarity—perfect for a summer afternoon. A pleasant tannic grip gives structure to its light, well-crafted profile. 92 (TE)

Juliusspital   Franken  Silvaner  trocken 2025 – 12.5% / This dry Silvaner brims with ripe yellow fruit and elegant elderflower blossom. A lovely tannic structure emerges on the medium-to-long finish, accompanied by a gentle warmth. Altogether balanced and inviting, this is a graceful expression of the vintage. 91 (TE)

Juliusspital   Franken  Silvaner   vom Keuper aus Iphofen  2025 – 13.5% / Spiced pear and a hint of orange peel give warmth to this ripe yet balanced Silvaner. Its beautifully structured acidity cuts cleanly through the well-crafted creaminess, never tipping into heaviness. A bold expression of Silvaner that remains authentically regional. 93 (TE)

Fürst Löwenstein  Franken  Silvaner Homburger CF trocken 2 025 – 12.0% / Sourced from terraced vineyards, with red sandstone soil with a hint of limestone, this cuvée is Fürst Löwenstein’s welcoming handshake. Although it lacks the pronounced tannic structure of 2025, it offers juicy, fresh charm and is a crowd-pleaser. The finish may be a bit brief, but it’s a delightful introduction to the variety. 89 (TE)

Luckert  Franken  Silvaner  Sulzfelder trocken 2025 – 12.5% / This lovely dry Silvaner will thrill Franken wine lovers. Fresh, herby, and lively, it offers just a touch of citrus and is never overwhelming. A slight creaminess rounds out the profile, making it both balanced and compelling. 91 (TE)

May  Franken  Silvaner  trocken 2025 – 12.0% / Still quite closed after just two weeks in bottle, this dry Silvaner hints at delicate pear and wildflowers. The finish is beautifully fresh and citrusy—already showing promise. 91 (TE)

May  Franken  Silavner  Retzstadt trocken 2025 – 12.5% / Pleasantly flinty (reductive) at first, this dry Silvaner opens into pear and a lovely grassy finish. A classic expression of the varietal, it balances freshness with subtle complexity. 92 (TE)

Schmitt’s Kinder  Franken  Silvaner  Randersacker trocken 2025 – 12.5% / This ripe, dry Silvaner strikes an excellent balance between the acidity of 2024 and the riper tones of 2023. Juicy in just the right way, it’s a pleasure to drink young. The notes of pear, straw, and orange peel all shine. 90 (TE)

DRY WEISSBURGUNDER

Hans Wirsching  Franken  Weißburgunder  Iphöfer 2025 – 13.0% / Ripe golden delicious apples and pear meet fresh-cut hay. This is a lovely Weißburgunder—well balanced with a creamy texture and just a whisper of smokiness. Elegant and harmonious. 91 (TE)

RIESLING

Fürst  Franken  Riesling Pur Mineral trocken 2025 – 11.5% / True to its name, this dry Riesling offers a gorgeous mineral backbone, but there’s so much more. Spiced pear adds a touch of warmth on the nose, and the palate shows that elegant  tannin structure of 2025. Minerality carries the long, warm finish—an exciting and multi-layered wine. 93 (TE)

May  Franken  Riesling  Benedictusberg Riesling Auslese 2025 – 9.5% / Cinnamon, orange peel, and marzipan—this lovely Auslese is beautifully balanced. Its shining acidic structure balances the delicate sweetness, leading into a long, cool finish with hints of white tea. 94 (TE)

DRY SAUVIGNON BLANC & SCHEUREBE

Luckert  Franken  Sauvignon Blanc  Sulzfelder trocken  2025 – 12.5% / There’s a subtle green edge to the yellow fruits in this dry Sauvignon Blanc. The nose is pleasantly tangy, while the finish is crisp and refreshing, with a whisper of tannic structure. A touch of sourness on the palate will delight fans of biodynamic and natural styles. 90 (TE)

Schmitt’s Kinder  Franken  Sauvignon Blanc  Randersacker Reserve 2025 – 13.0% / The first-ever bottling under this label from 10-year-old vines, this is a truly special Sauvignon Blanc. Mediterranean herbs, Amalfi lemon, and straw fill the palate—Italy made in Germany. Crisp green apple, with a light tannic touch at the extremely long finish. 94 (TE)

Hans Wirsching  Franken  Scheurebe  trocken  2025 – 12.5% / A pioneer in the region, this Scheurebe brims with ripe pear and fresh garden herbs. The finish is warm, creamy, yet sleek. A beautifully crafted Scheurebe—you won’t want to stop sipping. 92 (TE)