WÜRTTEMBERG NOW: Still Very Underrated!
A rare find that shines
Text by Frank Ebbinhaus and tasting notes by Frank Ebbinhaus & Stuart Pigott - last revision: 12.10.26
What exactly do the GGs (Große Gewächse) from Württemberg stand for? Before we explore this question, let’s first take a look at what Württemberg’s winegrowers had on offer at the GG Preview organized by the VDP (Association of German Prädikat Wine Estates) in Wiesbaden at the end of August. At first glance, the picture is somewhat sobering: of the 17 member estates of the VDP’s Württemberg regional association, eight chose not to present their GG wines. Felix Ellwanger (Weingut Jürgen Ellwanger in Winterbach), Chairman of the Board of VDP Württemberg, wrote to me that his GG wines were „not yet bottled due to the early harvest“. He thought the situation was similar for his colleagues who did not exhibit anything in Wiesbaden.
Fourteen Riesling GG, three each of Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris GG, ten Pinot Noir GG and twelve Lemberger GG made up the somewhat limited Württemberg line-up in Wiesbaden. And when one considers the impressive array of top-quality dry Rieslings from Rheinhessen or other classic Riesling strongholds, as well as the large number of very impressive top-quality red and white Pinots from Baden, Franconia or the Pfalz, the question arises: can Württemberg hold its own against this overwhelming strength?
It certainly can in many categories: the dry Rieslings, Pinot Blancs and Pinot Gris shine with wonderful freshness and balance, whilst the finest Pinot Noirs display a delicate silkiness and elegance. Oddly, it is with Lemberger (aka Blaufränkisch), traditionally regarded as Württemberg’s flagship red grape variety, that opinions are somewhat divided. None of these GG wines can be accused of lacking sensuality. However, I found some of them too ripe, opulent and sweet.
Two terms virtually dominate my descriptions of the wines: fresh and mineral. Whilst this may seem somewhat unimaginative or even repetitious to read, it shows that the top-quality Württemberg wines tasted in Wiesbaden taste very much in keeping with their terroir and contemporary taste. (FE)
Due to the small number of Württemberg wines shown in Wiesbaden we have added a number of my notes for wines from Graf Adelmann, plus the most important ones from Frank Ebbinghaus’s recent series of stories about the new winemakers of Hesigheim/Württemberg. In contrast to those repeat publications, the notes for the wines of Schwegler winery are all new. This enables us to present a more comprehensive overview of the region's top wines. (SP)
NOTE: Only for paying subscribers the notes for all 76 wines tasted can be found below. The ratings include one wine 99 and thirty three with 95 or more.